Belt over the patch or under the patch? Which do you prefer and why?
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Under. I figure the patch got sewn on that way because Haraki intended us to use the patch like an extra belt loop, so that's how I treat it.
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doesn't matter to me. my deciding factor is how fast i'm trying to get my belt into my pants & onto my a$$.
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Definitely under.
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My belief is that there is nothing to be gained from using your thick animal skin patch as a sixth belt loop unless you have a huge waist and need the extra support for your belt. In all probability, the combination of the super thick patch and the super thick belt will only result in the stitches eventually ripping/breaking, or the patch deforming. Putting your belt over-top of the patch however, provides some spectacular evo:
This is a similar situation to the cuffing debate. Cuffing inevitably destroys your denim much faster than hemming to the proper length, regardless of your aesthetic preference. But you people do what you want. It's more money for H, G & P.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think there has ever been an issue with the stitching coming loose due to belt use.
My SR patch is unstiching itself so I riveted it.
Snagged on the corner of a table (while wearing a belt underneath the patch)
The patch. The problem with the patch is that unlike a lot of other brands, the stitching is just at the top and the bottom (rather than all the way around), so that you can get your belt through the patch if that is what you like to do. That coupled with the thickness of the leather imposes great stress at the 4 corners.
The Polycotton that we sew the 634S with is and has alwayts been super strong.
On some jeans where we are aiming for a more vintage look (666 and 634SR) we use cotton. This does tend to give up quicker than Polycotton, but that's part of the vintage look we are trying to recreate.
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Always Under. Never understood people who wore it over when they had the option to put it under. ROY Patches piss me off. Why put in all that work on the patch to have it covered with something?