DWCxUHR - Denim World Championship Ultra Heavy Raws…

[Giles]

I do not know.  Read the post above….

[HolGer]

So you don´t know how much to sew of one size??

[Giles]

The simple answer is no.  If we did, we would.

Every time we make a new cut out of a new denim we have to sample it, only then do we know with any degree of accuracy how the cut/denim will behave.

After that we have to tweak the cut to further refine it.

The added complication of course is that the humidity in the mill that makes the denim and the factory that does the sewing changes how the denim behaves.

So, once we have the jeans here, we will measure them accurately, do a shrink test on one or two sizes to determine anticipated shrinkage and publish the dats.

The further further complication is that in broad strokes, Americans get more shrinkage out of a particular denim than Europeans who in turn get more shrinkage than Japanese.

EDIT.  I have re read your post with a German (Sascha from V&S).  I think I understand more what you are asking.

@Giles:

Although these are limited to 125. I will make extra (same cut but different patch), so I have room for manoeuvre (swapping around sizes) when they are delivered. We'll swap the patches if we need to.  This is what we did for the IHxBxHCx25oz

[Chris]

Well now that's interesting.  Any ideas why there are different degrees of shrinkage based on geography?

[Giles]

I think that it is a function of the aggressiveness or otherwise of the washing machines.  Tom always sends me stuff to do shrink tests on because she knows I will get more than her…

[Seul]

Yeah I was guessing it'd be that. Still: most machines are produced in the same part of the world, no?.. Maybe they have three lines…

"TLC" for Japan
"Vigorous but Gentle" for the €uros
and "Brutal and Brainless" for the land of Michael Bay...

[mclaincausey]

Couldn't it just be as simple as water temperature in the machines? Drying habits and temp too maybe.

[Giles]

It may be, but Americans tend to trash the white buttons we put on some of our workshirts, no other nation manages to do that….

[summ3rhays]

I have to admit I'm jealous of the temp and spin settings on the nonUS machines I've seen.

The spin on mine is high, higher and peel the fucker off with a spatula.

[spitfiredealer]

Mine actually has a jean setting on it. Can't say I have ever used it but nice to know it's there.

[KrisB]

how is the rise on bb's compared to 634's?

[grandmasterben]

@summ3rhays:

I have to admit I'm jealous of the temp and spin settings on the nonUS machines I've seen.

The spin on mine is high, higher and peel the fucker off with a spatula.

Lol

Same. Surprisingly, even after peeling it off, I've never had weird lines or anything. I honestly laugh when people say take it out before the spin cycle. That's 90% of what my machine does…

[Giles]

@KrisB:

how is the rise on bb's compared to 634's?

From the webpage:

• Slightly higher rise and more fitted top section than the IH-634S

But all measurements are under the Sizing" tab

[cadence]

Ordered a 32 since it matches my 33 Beatle Busters. I'm really excited but kind of sad I won't be able to spend more time with my current pair once the comp starts.

[Broark]

So how warm / breathable is this denim?
From everything I've read it's not very breathable.
I've got the 634S-B and the grey weft loomstate 633S from SelfEdge.
I can wear those most of the year here, aside from the Texas summers.
But if this denim is much less breathable than the other IH pairs I already have I might have to skip out.

[Max Power]

It is way less breathable as the 21 oz.  Though I personally already find these too warm in the summer. So it depends on your Preference.

[superfuzz]

From everything I've read this denim is not very breathable at all. Sorry Broark.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nizzel55]

The UHR are very warm to say the least.
I will not be wearing them during the summer here in the south of Sweden.

[cadence]

It will definitely be a challenge to wear these year around. How was the MBB's on breathe-ability? Maybe it would've been nice to do those again?

[Giles]

@Broark:

So how warm / breathable is this denim?
From everything I've read it's not very breathable.
I've got the 634S-B and the grey weft loomstate 633S from SelfEdge.
I can wear those most of the year here, aside from the Texas summers.
But if this denim is much less breathable than the other IH pairs I already have I might have to skip out.

http://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=6774.msg373789#msg373789

So short answer is, this denim does not breathe…