Random questions to which you seek an answer
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I have an IH related question, for which I'm sure there is a splendid or obvious answer that everyone else is aware of…
I'm a 36inch waist. I always buy 'regular' length trousers and jeans, which is described as a 32 inch (or 31inch) inseam, and a tape measure on my jeans suggests it's 31 most commonly after some washes. So... why are many sanforized IH jeans 37 or 37.5 inch in the inseam? Is it so that people have have a super chunky double cuff, or a cuff and a huge stack on top? Or are IH mens legs simply 5.5 inches longer than the norm?
(This is not a criticism, I'm currently employing cuff and stack, and will hem if needs be. Just interested to learn.)
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Because it costs a fortune to make and stock loads of different inseam lengths. So we make for what we think is a sensible longest leg that we will sell and give people the opportunity of hemming to their exact desired inseam length if they wish…
http://www.ironheart.co.uk/bottoms/chain-stitching.html
It's relatively easy to hem to length, it is impossible to add to length....
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Because it costs a fortune to make and stock loads of different inseam lengths. So we make for what we think is a sensible longest leg that we will sell and give people the opportunity of hemming to their exact desired inseam length if they wish…
http://www.ironheart.co.uk/bottoms/chain-stitching.html
It's relatively easy to hem to length, it is impossible to add to length....
While the economies of scale involved in making all your tagged waist jeans in a whole range of lengths (28"-37"?) is obviously the major issue for relatively small producers of jeans I think there's maybe an element of tradition as well @Giles ?
When jeans were being made and sold as workwear at the end of the 19 century and into the 20th they had long inseams for the exact same reasons as they do today. Also until the 30's there was no mass market sanforization so shrink to fit length was the norm. This is how cuffing and stacking started, not as a fashion statement but as a necessity. You needed to do something with that excess denim before washing, and even after washing you probably wouldn't hem it because it's workwear. So I think that aspect is important for some brands and customers as well as the economies of scale issue.
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Because it costs a fortune to make and stock loads of different inseam lengths. So we make for what we think is a sensible longest leg that we will sell and give people the opportunity of hemming to their exact desired inseam length if they wish…
http://www.ironheart.co.uk/bottoms/chain-stitching.html
It's relatively easy to hem to length, it is impossible to add to length....
Thanks for the fast reply, @Giles! Makes sense economically, as even if only 5% have such long legs, it means they could not buy/wear a pair at all if the inseam was any shorter. Well, assuming the half foot of trailing fabric doesn't put off people from purchasing… didn't stop me did it
If I'm 6'1 and have 6 inches of spare fabric (uncuffed) then I only worry some shorter people have a lot more trailing fabric. But I guess that's a judgement call made and a number of cuts have a shorter inseam too.My only qualm with hemming is it makes the leg opening even wider, which might mean you can only stack when wearing boots.
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Possibly scrap my hemming argument, even on tapered jeans like the 1955S if I hemmed off a full 6 inches (and I wouldn't) the hem would only rise from 8 3/4 to 9 1/4…
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But as @Madame Buttonfly oft says, that 1/2 inch is very important to some people…..
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Who can argue with that
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The only Japanese brand which comes to my mind offering multiple inseams is Resolute.
They offer inseams from 28" tp 36" on nearly all waist sizes (see here http://resolute.jp/710.html).But then they only have 4 models at all so they can't compete with IH on the variety of cuts/models
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The only Japanese brand which comes to my mind offering multiple inseams is Resolute.
They offer inseams from 28" tp 36" on nearly all waist sizes (see here http://resolute.jp/710.html).But then they only have 4 models at all so they can't compete with IH on the variety of cuts/models
Wow, 8 lengths. That is going some. The long legged aren't well served, though, their longest comes in 1.5 inches below peak IH length.
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And it is all unsanforized denim so it will shrink. But Resolute's main market is Japan and the guys&gals over there are shorter. The IH jeans for Japan are also shorter. Thanks to Giles you can enjoy those long inseams here on the Western market.
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I'm in Thailand but we have the Western inseam lengths, and no obvious place to get the hem chainstitched here that I know. A million tailors, but usually cheap and sloppy from my experience.
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Pronto have loads of 43200G's. I borrowed one a few years ago….
I sent them an email earlier today actually, I'm hoping they get back to me shortly. The staff member that served me said they couldn't chainstitch. Maybe the word or my pronunciation eluded him, I don't know the Thai equivalent. Or maybe that one store couldn't…
And thanks for the heads up, Giles. A happy coincidence a couple of hours after writing them a message
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according to Giles in random announcements it is slightly lighter than the standard 7.5oz loopwheeled materials, and will be available in S-L, and Xl & XXL with side seems. The collar looked constructed differently than what is on my IHPT-01 and IHFT-2012, which is what I am most excited for and I love some melange (is that the right term???) style heathered tees.
