Differences in Overdyed denims
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Hi all, in searching the forum, there is some info but not a lot comparing the differences in overdyed denims such as weight and to that of their non overdyed counterparts.
I'm obviously in the market for an OD pair but want to gather a bit more info first. I have a pair of 21 oz 888s and a 14 oz black/black...both of which I love. Now I am trying to decide what type of OD to get (21 vs 14 vs 14 broken twill).
Does the OD process change the feel of the denim? How about stretch? I have read that there is some shrinkage which is fine.
Regarding the 14 oz denims, there are so many with the two indigo versions having OD versions. As I only have the 14 oz bb, how does this compare to the OD versions in terms of feel, stretch, weave tightness, etc.?
Thanks all in advance.
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The most profound effect of od across the board is that essentially removes all shrinkage. In terms of the feel of the fabric based on the fabric thickness is hard to tell. The constant is that regardless of feel in the beginning, they will all soften up with wear. The 14oz i believe is a tighter weave in the first place than the 21oz. The 16oz slubby is the looser and more breathable one. Now in terms of bb and od the difference i think is that the bb starts as black and remains black or fades to gray. All od denim as far as i know they start as blue and then are overdyed in black so when they fade the blue starts coming through..
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@yannis thanks for the response. I also have the 16 oz slub and yes, those are very loose...almost like slacks.
Regarding the 14 oz denim, my follow up question would be whether the black/black is unique in its density/tightness/feel. It is the stiffest and thickest feeling 14 oz denim I have ever experienced. They feel stiffer and thicker than some 15/16oz denim from other brands. Do the indigo and OD versions have this same feel? In full disclosure, I love the thick, dense and tight feel of the 14oz bb so I am happy to replicate that.
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I have the bb in a 25oz and they feel stiffer than the regular 25oz. So maybe the bb gets stiffer. All od's start as regular blue and then get overdyed. From my experience they do not feel stiffer than the regular counterparts. I do not have any experience with 14oz od. But i have 21oz od and 25oz od that is actually called mb but they feel no stiffer than the regural versions.
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@Ridgemont the only OD I have is 21oz 888 and they are so super comfy. Kind of velvety like. They are super soft right out of the bag.
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The 14oz black is indeed pretty stiff when new — I don’t know what it is about black denim, but I’ve noticed that many brands share that same stiffness you’re talking about. I feel like the 21oz OD is totally comfy. Has some stretch, not a humongous amount, maybe a little less than normal 21oz.
Just my two cents but I feel like IH is best experienced in heavier weights. I say crank it up
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I have a pair of 634OD in 14oz and 21oz. I primarily use the 21oz for work. I work sometimes on my knees and do a lot of climbing with them and I like that they're comfy but have some pliability. I have two pairs of SBGs too and I find those are much softer than my OD 21oz and have a tad more stretch. I rarely wore my 14oz OD. But I prefer the feel of heavier weight and also prefer the darker aesthetic of overdye. Your preference may be different and the only way to find out really is just committing to if you want heavier jeans or not, imo.
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Like many folks have said. It does remove all shrink. It also makes the denim extremely soft for the first wear. They are also much harder to fade. I would choose a denim that you really want to commit to wearing them. I bought the 25oz overdye and wore them for 2 years. They still have pretty subtle fades. I also have had 21oz as well as the original CPO ~13.5oz time is really your best friend in over dye scenarios. I really recommend the slubby denim as it’ll be different and very textured. You may like the broken twill because it’s different than your 14oz black black pair. Whatever you choose. You’ll love them from the first wear. Just make sure you’re willing to put in the time to get the results you want. Happy fading!
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So many great suggestions so thank you all. After years of slim cuts, I have found a great fit last year in the 888s. Started with the 21oz and nearly wore them every day this year to get some respectable fades...very happy with the aging process.
Followed up with the 14oz bb since I figured everybody needed a black pair of denim (my first pair of black denim ever).
More recently I picked up the 16oz slubby denim for a difference in texture. I have had 2 other pairs of slub denim, but those were nothing compared to the level of texture in the IH.
In the theme of denim diversity, I pulled the trigger last night on the 14oz OD broken twill which I have been eyeing for several months now. I have never had either and OD or a broken twill so this will give good perspective.
