Raw Denim - What is it?
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@Kasi hems were not done chain-stitched by Tate&Yoko ..
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@Kasi i am yet to taste-test an IH PAIR .. I am already feeling .blessed .. I m.gonna love them anyway ..
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They was hem by golf bag maker.
Come on get a grip.
You don’t know that -
James bond wore a N&F pair in one of the movies .. no time to die (2021) ..
Stretch selvedge [most probably] or dirty fade selvedge.
They deserve some credit.
Mo, u hate everything which is not IH, FC, TFH and Buco and GAH ..
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Has zero effect on me. Who worn it.
See IH Is bigger than N&F don’t need no celebrity to wear it real people wear it
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I m.not comparing IH and N&F .. IH IS TOP-notch, best of the best ..
The thing i love about them is that they experiment with fabric and dyeing a lot.
They wanna be creative, innovative, and do what no one has done it. I like such traits about them. They put a lot of effort in R&D, keeping traditional methods alive with modern touch.You don't have to like them.
WHEN Japanese take on a trade, they master it. no one beats them to craftsmanship and passion for producing jeans. Thanks to them, we get to wear selvedge jeans still in 2025 and many more years to come.
ALL HAVE CONTRIBUTED A LOT IN THIS INDUSTRY AND keeping sub-culture of selvedge denim alive.
#Respect
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"Raw" means unwashed after dyeing and has nothing to do with sanforization.
"Sanforized" means pre-shrunk fabric but doesn't involve washing, so it can still be raw.
Can a pair of jeans be both Raw denim - sanforized and Raw denim - unsanforized?
@Giles your 2-cents are needed here -
So, unsanforized-one-wash isn't raw denim, but raw denim can be sanforized, right? I'm trying to wrap my head around this.
First, it skipped the usual shrinking process, hence "unsanforized." Then, they washed the finished jeans, making it "one-wash" and no longer raw. So, unsanforized-one-wash, but not raw denim – am I right, @Giles ?
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@Tago-Mago Let's hear what you've got. ..
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https://www.ironheart.co.uk/content/denim-glossary
I would never be so presumptuous as to compare my extremely limited knowledge to that of Giles. Hence, I stick to what's written on the website
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@Tago-Mago i m gonna read it now.
I believe the term " Raw " has been misconstrued or modified. Some take it half glass full, some as half-glass empty.So, according to @Giles
Unsanforized-one wash is not RAW denim.
The same is true for; sanforized-no wash denim is still not raw denim ..Raw denim is raw + unsanforized or untreated fabric or finished product whatsoever.
Does it settle now?
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If it has any post weave processing; washing, sanforising, skewing, singeing, you name it, it is not in our opinion raw.
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011
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Let me make ot simple
Unsanforized [post-weaving fabric] and ome-wash [ finished jeans] is not raw denim.
Similarly,
Sanforized [ post-weaving fabric], no-washed[ finished jeans] is still not raw.Hence,
Raw denim is :
Unsanforized [ post-weaving fabric] and no-wash[ finished jeans] or another treatment to remove stiffness, starch or shrinkage.
Just loomstate fabric, sewn into Jeans is raw denim.This is what I believe.
I m open to Suggestions and corrections.
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Hey @Giles, I'm totally with you on this. Loomstate fabric jeans, sewn raw – no washing, no anti-skewing, no singeing, no mercerizing, nothing to change the fabric or jeans at all. Completely untreated and unmolded.
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Finally, is it essential for raw denim to increase in weight by two ounces, such as from 21 to 23 ounces for ultra heavy Raw(UHR) IH-denim, after the customer soaks or washes their jeans? Conversely, could a 23-ounce raw-pair shrink to 21 ounces after soaking and washing?
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Please provide a final response; this will conclude the matter.
@Giles -
Denim weight is traditionally measured loomstate, but how much that denim weighs after it has been sanforised and/or washed is dependent on a multitude of variables.
@Hamza-Yunus said in Raw Denim - What is it?:
Conversely, could a 23-ounce raw-pair shrink to 21 ounces after soaking and washing?
No. When the fabric shrinks you are basically taking away null space, so you get more fabric in a square yard, hence sanforised and/or washed denim will weigh more than in its loomstate.
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gotcha .. conversely it is not true. I was referring to IH 21/23 oz UHR pair. When the buyer soaks or washes it the first time, not the manufacturer (IH), the fabric density increases as the " null space " is taken away due to water absorption as the twill weave gets tightened or denser. the fabric weight might increase to 23oz from the 21oz-loom state as advertised.
once fully dried, it may retain a slightly heavier density (23oz) and may go back to its natural weight of 21oz over time. Like u said, it involves a multitude of factors and may or may not be genrallised.anyways, thanks a lot for your expertise. @Giles
