Belts
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I have one of the blue buckled Tender belts and it is amazing. Not to say that I'm never tempted by the IH and Buco belts, but I can't bring myself to putting the Tender away. It has aged amazingly well and continues to do so. For sizing I have a 33" waist and I'm pretty sure mine is a 4. I'll check when I get off of work to be positive.
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I like stitched, layered belts. If an artisan knows that they're doing, stitching two layers together with grain direction reversed will ensure that the belt doesn't stretch much if at all. It's a sign of quality. It doesn't seem like it would take nearly as much effort or skill to make a single layer belt.
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I prefer Chicago screws so that I can switch out the buckle easily
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Definitely, screws are better. I have no intention of ever buying another belt where I can't change out the buckle.
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Texans love their buckles.
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Yee-haw…
I change my buckle on my western tooled belts quite frequently, though less so on some others. Either way, Chicago screws have never been an issue for me. There's not a lot of tension placed on them and no reason for them to give out.
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New BlackAcre belts:
http://www.theblackacre.net/shop/garrison-belt-v4-aussie-nut-uk-bridle
http://www.theblackacre.net/shop/garrison-belt-v41-wide
I was gonna pull the trigger on the V4.1 but don't quite like the look and feel of 1.75" wide belts on myself.
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I'd look at an Equus Leather belt in either London Tan (top) or Hazel (bottom).
I'd be inclined to go with London Tan in the Bakers of Colyton leather, as that is really lovely.
Rivet and Hide offer a single and a double prong buckle in the same Bakers leather, and they are lovely belts.