Samurai Jeans
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@popvulture so tempted to take this thread off the rails!
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Hey, anyone have any experience with the S3000? Specifically the tag size 36?
Given the different measuring methods it's a little tricky drilling down exactly how they size up (+1 to the iron heart crew for being great with this). I reached out to a few vendors in Japan but I've only had the approx measurements on the Samurai site.
The Self Edge measurements look perfect (rise: 12.75, thigh: 14, knee 10.25). But, their measurements differ from everywhere else. Including Samurai.
I have some 510HX but they're a little too slim for my liking and the rise a little too low (12). So the S3000's in theory make sense. Just looking for a little more clarity before I pull the trigger.
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@twotouches
I purchased a pair of s3000 zero bushido last year in tag 35. For reference I’m a tag 35 in IH-888s. The 3000 got returned almost immediately. They weren’t just relaxed, but felt enormous at the hip and leg. I returned for the s510 Cho kiwami. I tossed them into a presoak but haven’t worn much, but they are less relaxed and more of a classic straight than the s3000. -
My understanding of the S3000 is that they’re a wide straight leg rather than a wide leg. But, I guess body type is the deciding factor. I’ve seen them look big and baggie and more normal straight. Self edge model for instance makes them look like a normal straight.
My 510 36 are:
9.5
8.5 openingWhich is pretty narrow for me (6’4, 100KG)
3000’s are approx:
10.25 knee
9 openingSo theres still a decent taper from the knee to the hem. According to self edge anyway.
Do you have any old measurements from the s3000? Did you get one wash or raw?
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@twotouches I went with the one wash when I tried the s3000. Don’t have the measurements but they were practically falling off my body.
I’m 6’2” and 205lb - sorry for freedom units.
Waist is a 34.5-35”
Thigh is where I care about my measurements the most - my thighs are about 25-26” depending on season. The s3000 I considered a baggy fit. -
May I ask what the measurement of the thigh, knee and hem of your favorite pair of straight jeans are (or what you aim for), please? Just trying to figure out what your baggy is
Also, would you say the measurements here were about right for your experience with the 35? They are from the Samurai site.
Waist, thigh, knee, inseam, hem
Also thanks for helping me figure this out!
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This is how my 510HX fit. Not bad but theres a little pinch at the rise on my inside thighs that irritates me. It'll maybe loosen up with more wear. And, for everyday I'd prefer a little roomier knee and slightly wider hem.
For reference tag size 36 with 2 inches taken out of the waist
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@twotouches said in Samurai Jeans:
May I ask what the measurement of the thigh, knee and hem of your favorite pair of straight jeans are (or what you aim for), please? Just trying to figure out what your baggy is
Also, would you say the measurements here were about right for your experience with the 35? They are from the Samurai site.
Waist, thigh, knee, inseam, hem
Also thanks for helping me figure this out!
Regarding the waist, Samurai measures the circumference inside the waist. Also they measure the thighs differently (I think from the edge of the crotch to the side seam)
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@twotouches I’ll try to take measurements/pics tomorrow if I get a chance.
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@twotouches
Samurai S510xx Lot 35 Tag 35w
I presoaked these when I got them as they were extremely stiff regardless of the one wash.
Just measured the thigh Ironheart style and it measures 13.6”.
Waist measured flat across Ih way - 17” (34” on the money)
Ironheart 888-21 I’ve worn since 10/16/23 and just tub washed and air dried. Tag 35
Thigh measured IH style - 13.25”
Waist 34”
And a comparison of the two fabrics with direct sun light on them indoor
As for measurements - I ordered from a US retailer after they directed me to measure my best fitting denim their way (IH way is not followed by most US retailers unless they specify it I have found)
With that - I found that the 510xx is most similar to the Levi’s 501 cuts I remember. The leg rise is mid-high and sits just between natural waist and hips on me. Same spot my 888 hit. The thigh is clearly wider while there is no taper from thigh to ankle. I bought these specifically because I wanted a slightly more relaxed fitting heavy denim and IH 888 is the only cut that works for me out of their standard fits
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wide heavy chinos
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Fresh off the boat. Dragons and lightning bolts. Power combo.
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Grabbed this today and also have my first IH flannel arriving via DHL later. This is their heavyweight flannel and it’s really nice. Not sure of the specifics of the weight…feels like 14oz give or take, it’s hefty but because it isn’t brushed doesn’t feel quite as heavy as my Freenote Bensons. The details are impressive and the finish is flawless. Really digging the colors as well.
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Just a quick note on Samurai (and possibly other Japanese brands) because there seems to be some confusion. This was purchased from an American vendor (I'm in the US) and is labeled an XL shirt. You can see from my measurements that it's measuring at a apx 49" in the chest. I fell in love with this shirt and went to purchase other colors but they were only available in Japan. Luckily I noticed a very wide discrepancy in sizes between the shirts in Japan and the shirts in the US. An XL size in Japan was a full 5" smaller in the chest. Samurai does indeed size and label some of their shirts differently for the US market. I verified these measurements via the phone with the overseas vendors. I know that most of us on these forums are seasoned purchasers of these garments and we know that size labels are completely irrelevant to us...we shop by the measurements. But if there is anyone who might not be as seasoned or (like myself) assumed that the same labeled size would be the same measurements (withing reason) please take note.
All that being said, Samurai makes some really nice stuff. But if you are outside of Japan you will need to make a note of the measurements and be prepared to pay a rather hefty upcharge for their shirts if you are a bigger guy...because they don't sell those bigger sizes in Japan and I didn't see them on the Samurai site either. The difference was over $100 usd in price. I don't in any way regret these purchases but YMMV.