IH-555S-21 - 21oz Selvedge Denim Super Slim Jeans - Indigo PREVIOUSLY IH-555-01
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I'm going nuts trying to figure out which cut I should get for my first pair in 21 oz. I'm torn between this 555 or the 301S from Self Edge. Does anyone have an opinion? I think I'd wear a 38 in both. I'd appreciate any insight.
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They’re very different cuts. 555 has a high rise and a fitted top block. 301 is a low/mid rise and has a lot more room in the top block and thigh.
It depends on what’s best for your body type. Best course of action is to compare the measurements to a pair you like, and go from there.
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I'm torn between this 555 or the 301S from Self Edge. Does anyone have an opinion?
Funnily enough these were my first two pairs of IH. I picked up the IH-301S from SENY and six months later the IH-555-01 from IHUK.
@sabergirl is right, they will fit you quite differently and how they look will depend very much on your body type. Both pairs are slim but the 555’s are slightly slimmer. The taper begins earlier below the hip giving a narrower knee. If you have meaty thighs these may not be for you. The 301’s have a much lower rise than the 555. On some body types, this, combined with a relaxed top block can mean either “diaper butt” or bum cleavage showing. Not great looks.
I’d like to suggest the 888 cut if either the slim thighs of the 555 or the low rise of the 301 might be a problem. For safety’s sake I’ll also mention the stretching in the 21oz. It will easily stretch out an inch in the waist, possibly two inches. This is what happened to my 301S. They fit nicely when I bought them in store in NYC, but by the time I got back to Norway a week later they were falling off me.
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Thanks @neph93 and @sabergirl for the replies. I'm tall (6'5") and lanky with a long torso and not much of a butt. I usually wear slim cut mid rise jeans. I'm trying to compare the two cuts to a pair of Railcar jeans that I have and a pair from a company called Red Clouds Collective. The measurements I have taken "The Iron Heart Way" are as follows:
The first pair:
Waist: 41 in
Front Rise: 10.5 in
Back Rise: 16.5 in
Thigh: 14 in
Knee: 9 in
Hem: 8 inThe second pair:
Waist: 40 in
Front Rise: 11.25 in
Back Rise: 15.5
Thigh: 13.75 in
Knee: 9.5 in
Hem: 9.25 inI'm concerned about the stretch in the waist with the 21 ounce after reading through all the posts on here. I know I'm overthinking this and it's ultimately me who has to pull the trigger.
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If the waist on those pairs fit you right I’d say you should be looking at a pair of 555’s or 301’s that start around 38-39” irl.
If you can manage the thighs on both and prefer a tapered fit, then it comes down to the rise. The 555 have a higher than average rise without it being a truly high rise like the 888 or 1955 cuts. The 301’s lower than average. If you have a long torso then the lower rise of the 301 will accentuate that, the higher rise of the 555 will offset the impression. Go with whichever of those you prefer, maybe?
If you want a true mid rise, slim fit then the 666’s are a great option. They look brilliant on tall guys with a long inseam, but some find the hem a little wide for their tastes.
Another important bit of info, don’t compare IHUK’s measurements with SE’s they use different systems of measuring.
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Thanks again for the knowledge. I think it would be best to wait until they’re restocked in a smaller size since both the 21 oz 555 and 301 cuts in size 38 have a 40 inch waist. I don’t want to get a pair that will stretch out to the point of not staying on.
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I wouldn’t worry too much about the waist stretching; who wears jeans sans a belt, anyway?
Notice how I jinx it for myself by saying that… Waiting for a pair of 555-03 to arrive (UPS ::)), that measures perfect everywhere else but the waist is ginormous. I’ve convinced myself it’s nothing a belt won’t fix...
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In my case, I wear sz 34 yet the waist on 555s can be a bit oversized. I made sure to take two of the most important things into account; stretch on the waist and the thigh. The IH crew was very helpful in getting me a pair with the smallest waist with the biggest thigh. I was hesitant since I'm comfortable at around 13in initially with a bit more give just in case, but my pair was at 12.5. I decided to go for it. And while it took a while they eventually stretched out to 13. As you can see from a few posts above, the thigh measurement is pretty snug, which to me tells me I just made the limit when it comes to stretch. As for the waist, as mentioned above, as long as you wear belts you won't see much of a stretch, I think mine stretched out less than half an inch.
tl;dr
Waist and thigh measurements are the most important imo. I got half an inch on thigh alone!
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@brobles no way is that tl/dr, thanks for sharing valuable experience. I'm in the same boat as you, re. waist/thigh ratio. I've had to give up on the 555 cut because try as I might I'm kidding myself. Even with small waist/big thigh specs I still end up with a pair too tight in the thigh and fitted in the waist, or comfortable(ish) on the thigh but with a top block you could use to move a heavy barge on a windy day. The weird thing is I can do a 666 with a 12.6" thigh, but not a 555 with a 12.8" thigh. I've worked out it is because my thighs stay big all the way down to the knee and that 555 taper is just too much. 888's 4eva.
@Crit_Obs the good news is that the 555-03 will shrink so the big waist on that iteration is by design. The bad news is I don't believe belts retard stretch. They certainly don't in my experience. If the waist is already big the stretch will be minimal though.
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Thanks again for the knowledge. I think it would be best to wait until they’re restocked in a smaller size since both the 21 oz 555 and 301 cuts in size 38 have a 40 inch waist. I don’t want to get a pair that will stretch out to the point of not staying on.
I support that. 555 in W36 should work.
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I wouldn’t advise 36, looking at the thigh measurements of your current jeans. At least 38 will be needed, with still some stretching to do.
Ooo, shit, you’re right. I didn’t think to check. Well done.
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Since getting tangled up in this obsession, I normally try to focus on one pair each year; these have been my 2018 denim. Having worn them for the year I truly believe these are twice the jean compared to everything I have tried previously; twice as stubborn, twice as tough, and twice the weight!
These truly are fantastic, normally after a year jeans are showing signs of approaching the end of their useful life, blowouts on crotch and knees, but these look like they have another good year in them… amazing jeans and the best cut I have tried... it almost makes me not want to buy a new pair for 2019, almost!
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@DevonReviewer Nice job!
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Just received my first Iron Heart last night. Can experts see if they fit me well?
As you can see I'm quiet skinny. The waist tag size I picked is 28" and the actual size is 30". There is still space for me to my thumb in on the waist.
What do you guys think? Do these fit me okay?
Thanks.
