Repairs & Modifications
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@CLJ:
Just a quick one about maintenance. This is the crotch stitching on my 634S.
@CLJ: That shit is apparently happening in the crotch area on most pairs of raw/dry jeans, at least every single one of mine.
Here's a pic of a gusset, which is designed to take the stress off that shitty single crotch seam on regular jeans:
Edit: zhivago knows how to diffuse the situation…
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Kinda reminds me of something else that takes MY stress away…
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@adam313:
@CLJ:
Just a quick one about maintenance. This is the crotch stitching on my 634S.
@CLJ: That shit is apparently happening in the crotch area on most pairs of raw/dry jeans, at least every single one of mine.
Here's a pic of a gusset, which is designed to take the stress off that shitty single crotch seam on regular jeans:
Edit: zhivago knows how to diffuse the situation…
that gusset wouldn't help with wear as it's caused by friction not stress. unless your getting seam blow out then it is stress. the problem is a simple one to fix….. wear loose fitting jeans
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That reminds me of these:
Anyone want to make some selvedge action jeans?
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Thanks to everyone for their persepctives, but no, in my experience it ^^ is not correct. CLJ's pics show the friction happening EXACTLY where the crotch seam is. My IH jeans confirm this phenomenon, in other words, the super bulky 21oz. seam directly under your balls is the cause of the excessive friction, and consequently the premature deterioration of the seam stitching in that area. Therefore, my proposition was simply that if you remove the super bulky seam (i.e. insert gusset), you logically decrease the opportunity for excessive friction in the crotch…and hence, longer wear before repair.
And I believe most of us on this forum, myself included, have sized "properly" in the 634 cut, which is the pair CLJ posted about originally, so too tight jeans is not the issue.
But that's all I will say. I will post pics of my crotch repair when I get them back from my tailor.
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I have two pairs of IH sz 38s (21oz, 23 oz) that I am thinking about taking to the Denim Doctor in LA to have brought in to a 36. I have lost a bunch of weight lately, and I don't think it is coming back. Can anyone speak to the quality of their alterations? I've read some people on this thread were happy with their repairs, but haven't seen anything on alts. Should I even do this? Or should I just try to sell them? I really love the jeans and they still fit well everywhere but the waist. Part of me thinks that altering Iron Heart jeans are like a Victoria Secret Angel getting plastic surgery though. I would really appreciate some outside opinions on this. Thanks.
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need to send my 634s-raw and my samurai s0500xx to the Denim Doctor in the UK as well…need to get them reinforced in the crotch, since the diy-repairs ain´t taking it anymore and also i´m goona let the 634s-raw hem and taper by 0.5-1" from knee down, so that i won´t have any excess denim anymore...gonna report back with pics as soon as i have´em back!
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… I really love the jeans and they still fit well everywhere but the waist.
do it!…
Thanks Finn. That's what I wanted to hear.
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I had a pair of the SExSC06 when they were released and honestly Adam I think the general consensus was that the rectangular patch didn't do much to prevent crotch blowouts in the long run. However mine didn't blow out or anything but I did not size down and was about 20lbs lighter then than I am now and was quite slim.
Overall though, they were the coolest jeans I've ever owned hands down.
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Thanks for posting your experience xchen. I agree that the patch would not prevent all crotch blowouts. I posted the picture because I thought it was relevant to the above ^^ discussion about the erosion of the stitching at the crotch seam, which the patch looks like it would help.
To your point, my blowouts have happened a few inches from the seam area, but my chainstitches have also eroded, so it would be nice to have that patch in retrospect. Here's the repair on my sample pair of 23oz. The stitching is black because that is the only color my tailor could find in super thick poly thread. Mine was not a full blowout, it was simply a crease that had frayed away the indigo threads and created a small hole:
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Those repairs look great - what I should have said about the rectangular patch… I feel like I read that it was wearing through for some people on the corners of the patch. Almost like that rectangular patch was increasing the stress on the fabric. I don't think they've used it on any collaborations since.
However, I also think Sugar Cane denim is more prone to wearing through than IH's in general.
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The difference between the denim really doesn't account for too much unless the fit of the jeans are equally the same. as you noted above, the edges of the patch on the SEXSC jeans would be more prone to friction against the surrounding sides of the denim and so they would be more likely to wear through. That being said, if anyone wears their jeans exceedingly tight (or the cut is just slim, ex. 666, 301, FH3001, etc.) there is more friction and hence much more likely to wear through.
And agreed with xchen, those repairs look damn good adam.
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Can anyone recommend a tailor in San Francisco or one I can ship to that could repair fraying on the cuff of my IH 634 25oz ? I'd assume they would have to undo the original stitching, repair the fraying and then redo the cuff stitching. I've been told I can have the stitched shorter but since they aren't cuffed I'm afraid they would then be high waters on me.
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Take your jeans to Self Edge. They have the tools and expertise to fix just about any problem you might have, and they're used to Iron Heart denim. Be careful, though- while you're there, you just might be tempted to buy something.
