White's Boots
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Like Whites said themselves, Hathorn uses lower quality material and construction. Tripleworks does not.
None of this is to say that Hathorn are not great boots, because they certainly are, as others have said they are far higher standard than Red Wings, Chippewa, et al…
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The Hathorn line is to Whites as Triple Works is to Iron Heart, IMHO.
The difference is that Triple Works and Iron Heart are designed by the same people, made in the same factories, made by the same people using the same construction methods. That is not true of Hathorn and Whites.
It was actually meant as a compliment. I just see the Hathorn line as a lightweight version of Whites.
Hathorns are designed by the same people, made in the same factory(USA), made from most of the same materials, and made using mostly the same construction methods.
I think White's email response was just worded badly and referring to the Hathorn Explorer line. The "lower" quality they are referring to is still higher than 80% of Red Wings, Danner, Wolverine, etc. There are three Hathorn lines (yes, very confusing), "Hathorn Hi-Line," "Hathorn," and "Hathorn Explorer." As far as I can tell most of the "Hathorn Hi-Line" and "Hathorn" lines are constructed the exact same way as Whites being handmade with possibly lighter weight leathers, depending on the boot model. You can get custom "Hathorn" boots using the exact same leathers that a pair of "Whites" are made of. Also, let's not forget that all of these boots use Vibram soles. The "Hathorn Explorer" line is all machine welted just like Alden, Red Wings, Danner, Wolverine, etc.
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Alright all you bad influences, you've talked me into a proper pair of White's. Looking at the Bounty Hunters that were suggested… beautiful stuff. I now ask for the collective wisdom of the group for suggestions/improvements/answers to the following questions...
Sizing: I wear a 10EE in Thorogoods, keep the same size for White's?
My initial customization has the following: tell me what's right and what's wrong in your opinion please:
Burgundy french calf - vamp, counter, upper (want a nice rich red color)
Brown Edge (or does natural match up with the red better?)
Single midsole (maybe double?)
single celastic toe
brass hardware
top cut
traveler heel base
standard lift
leather loop pullsEdit Also vibrum mini 430 sole... I think
Is there a better dark red leather to look into?
thanks!
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Don't know about sizing, but I'd go with a natural midsole. With use, it will darken to about the same color as the brown if you decide you don't like it.
Also, French calf isn't a tough leather, so keep in mind that it will show scuffs, scrapes and other marks more easily than regular cow hide. That may not be a concern for you, but it's worth mentioning.
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Nothing really to add to what Chris has said, all the other parts are just a matter of personal taste.
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"Sizing?" I'd just go to Graham Fowler and/or Tani to figure that out. I'd assume you're a 10E if I remember my experience with Thorgoods correctly, but again, just go try some on to be sure or send in your foot tracings.
Leather choice is just personal preference
Lace to toe gives you more control over the width in regards to how tight or loose you tie your laces compared to the plain toe configuation
Height is just personal preferenceThese are my options when I order:
single celastic toe
vibram mini 430 sole
90 degree block(traveler) heel base
standard lift
Natural edge
Single midsole
leather loop pulls
top cut
brass or nickle all holes hardware(just depends on leather color)
Brown Leather laces"Is there a better dark red leather to look into?"
It really depends. Do you want them shiny? Matte? Thick or Thin? Comfortable out of the box?
I have 41 leather samples and these 5 are probably your best bet.
The reds in order of darkness(excluding bullhide), imho.
Burgundy CXL(matte oiled look, very pliable, scuffs can easily be rubbed out, second thickest leather out of these)
Black Cherry Water Buffalo(thinnest, extremely shiny, grainy)
Burgundy French Calf(thin, extremely shiny, scuffs look very light underneath)
Red Dog(I'm assuming I have the oiled version)(thickest, matte, scuffs can be rubbed out, no comparison when it comes to toughness, just a few shades below the Burgundy FC)
Red Milano Water Buffalo(thinest, extremely shiny, grainy, more of a true red)Personally, I'd get the Red Dog Oiled toe vamp/counter for longevity and Burgundy CXL Upper for comfort. I just oiled part of the Red Dog sample and it matches the Burgundy CXL almost perfectly now(in low light).
Both of these are or can be darker than the Burg FC.I'm located in Williamsburg. All you have to do is buy me a pour over coffee somewhere and you can see the leather samples.
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^ Great answer, great offer, and Shane is a stand up guy. Buy this man coffee and view his leather.
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You guys are unbelievable. Thanks for all that info – EXTREMELY helpful.
Follow-ups would be - the two tones of leather would look good together? Usually like a single tone, but if they can be polished to looking similar I'd be open to that.
While fighting the urge to just order them right now I'll say Urb - you're on! I'm around Friday afternoon and most of this Saturday let me know if either of those work - I can shoot over on the L pretty quick.
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Alright all you bad influences, you've talked me into a proper pair of White's. Looking at the Bounty Hunters that were suggested… beautiful stuff. I now ask for the collective wisdom of the group for suggestions/improvements/answers to the following questions...
Sizing: I wear a 10EE in Thorogoods, keep the same size for White's?
My initial customization has the following: tell me what's right and what's wrong in your opinion please:
Burgundy french calf - vamp, counter, upper (want a nice rich red color)
Brown Edge (or does natural match up with the red better?)
Single midsole (maybe double?)
single celastic toe
brass hardware
top cut
traveler heel base
standard lift
leather loop pullsEdit Also vibrum mini 430 sole... I think
Is there a better dark red leather to look into?
thanks!
honestly i loved my burgundy cxl at first, but after about a month i started to hate it. IMO it just doesnt age well. It just looks dirty and hazy.
Ive seen the Red Dog Oiled that looks awesome, IIRC, after you wear it a bunch
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"Sizing?" I'd just go to Graham Fowler and/or Tani to figure that out. I'd assume you're a 10E if I remember my experience with Thorgoods correctly, but again, just go try some on to be sure or send in your foot tracings.
Leather choice is just personal preference
Lace to toe gives you more control over the width in regards to how tight or loose you tie your laces compared to the plain toe configuation
Height is just personal preferenceThese are my options when I order:
single celastic toe
vibram mini 430 sole
90 degree block(traveler) heel base
standard lift
Natural edge
Single midsole
leather loop pulls
top cut
brass or nickle all holes hardware(just depends on leather color)
Brown Leather laces"Is there a better dark red leather to look into?"
It really depends. Do you want them shiny? Matte? Thick or Thin? Comfortable out of the box?
I have 41 leather samples and these 5 are probably your best bet.
The reds in order of darkness(excluding bullhide), imho.
Burgundy CXL(matte oiled look, very pliable, scuffs can easily be rubbed out, second thickest leather out of these)
Black Cherry Water Buffalo(thinnest, extremely shiny, grainy)
Burgundy French Calf(thin, extremely shiny, scuffs look very light underneath)
Red Dog(I'm assuming I have the oiled version)(thickest, matte, scuffs can be rubbed out, no comparison when it comes to toughness, just a few shades below the Burgundy FC)
Red Milano Water Buffalo(thinest, extremely shiny, grainy, more of a true red)Personally, I'd get the Red Dog Oiled toe vamp/counter for longevity and Burgundy CXL Upper for comfort. I just oiled part of the Red Dog sample and it matches the Burgundy CXL almost perfectly now(in low light).
Both of these are or can be darker than the Burg FC.I'm located in Williamsburg. All you have to do is buy me a pour over coffee somewhere and you can see the leather samples.
I;'m in Greenpoint. Can we make it a beer?
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Either/both work for me, coming from Hoboken so keep me close to a subway though
Y'all want to go to Torst Friday afternoon? PM me
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Went in Tani on 72nd st earlier today. They had all black smokejumpers and all red dog smokejumpers on sale for $320. Also, they had brown semi dress with leather sole and black semi dress with leather sole for $280. Sizes were mostly at the ends, 7,8,11,12. I think the black semi dress might of had a few more sizes like 8.5 and 9. All medium widths.
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Shane you're the man - thanks for all the help with the boots. Had a great day hanging at SelfEdge and Marshall Stack.
I couldn't wait anymore to place the order, so ordered the following:
Baker's Custom Bounty Hunter by White's Boots
Counter Leather Red Dog Oiled, Celastic Toe Box Single Celastic Toe, Height 6", Midsole Single, Heel Base 90 Degree Blocked off Heel (Traveler), Last Semi Dress (Bounty Hunter), Steel Toe No Thanks, Upper (Shaft) Leather Red Dog Oiled, Toe Cap No Thanks, Toe Vamp Leather Red Dog Oiled, Top Rolled Top, Hardware Brass Eyes & Hooks, Leather Liner Red, Pull Loops Leather Pull Loops, Size - Width E, Lace Design Lace to Toe, Sole Vibram 430 Mini Vib, Toe Cap Leather Color Does not apply, Edge Natural, Heel Lifts Standard, Size - Length 10Pics in 8 to 10 weeks - thanks again!
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Change the heel and laces to standard and add a toe cap and that sounds just about prefect to me…
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Awesome man.
So basically this but with a 430 sole/block heel
(this is a composition half sole(700) with a cuban heel)
