IH-634S-18 - 18oz Vintage Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans - Indigo
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Hey @Giles,
I've looked around to find a perfect pair for myself that fits me in every area as I want and I've noticed that most of the times, whenever all the areas are perfect for me, the waist is always too small and when the waist is perfect to begin with, the other areas may be too baggy.
I've come across IH-634S-14 and IH-634S-18 and I've placed my order for both of them to try them out as I thought that there isn't any other pair that fits as I want:
The IH-634S-14 measures:
Waist - 71.12cm
Front rise - 24.8cm
Rear rise - 35.5cm
Thigh - 28.4cm
Knee - 20.5cm
Hem - 19.0cmand the IH-634S-18 measures:
Waist - 72.6cm
Front rise - 25.5cm
Rear rise - 36.2cm
Thigh - 28.5cm
Knee - 20.9cm
Hem - 19.0cmMy ideal measurements are
Waist: 74-75cm
Front Rise: 24.5-25cm
Back Rise: 35-36.5cm
Thigh: 28-29cm
Knee: 19.5-20cm
Hem (I want this to be post-hemming service if possible): 16.5-17cmAs you can see, the waist is quite a bit small on both of these. According to the website, they should stretch up to an inch but my question is: How much will they really stretch according to your knowledge and experience? Because if the 634S-18 stretched an inch (not more, not less), it would end up being 72,6cm (maybe a little loose) and the 634S-14 would end up being 73,62cm (maybe a little tight).
Therefore, I thought about 'sizing down' and going with tag size 28, a smaller waist but having the other areas as I want them to be rather than going with tag size 29 which would have a waist of 74,9cm for the IH634S-18 and IH-634S-14 (which could be good on the waist to begin with but could get looser since it'll expand, right?)
PS: I've read the post about ''Soaking and stretching denim'' but I'm not sure if that applies to all of the denims like the 634S-18 or 634S-14 for example.
Also: What if I had went with a pair that measures 71,1cm in the waist but is perfect everywhere else? Would that end up stretching to my ideal waist measurement as well?
Thanks a lot!
Best Regards,
Doguhan -
@doguhanca:
What if I had went with a pair that measures 71,1cm in the waist but is perfect everywhere else? Would that end up stretching to my ideal waist measurement?
Hei @doguhanca
I’ll allow myself to answer for Giles and he can chip in later if I miss anything.
Firstly you can count on that 2.5cm of stretch in the waist. It will happen with wear. In fact sometimes it’ll stretch more if needed. If you don’t mind some discomfort the first couple of weeks the 3-4cm of stretch may happen.
Secondly, both these denims are fully sanforised so you don’t need to worry about soaking or shrinkage.
Finally, if you order from IHUK then you can ask them to check a couple of pairs to find a pair with the best measurements. Individual pairs can vary slightly.
One more thing, I own the IH-634S-18 and it is really wonderful denim.
Hope this helps.
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@neph93 Thanks a lot for your answer! So do I understand right that the waist will stretch as much as I need, not more and not less? It will conform around my waist and then stay like that? So if I order 71,1cm waist, it'll stretch to 74-75cm (my ideal waist measurement) and even if I order 72,6cm it'll still stretch to 74-75cm and stay there?
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It isn’t that precise, and there is a maximum amount of stretch achievable. Also some denim is more liable to stretch than others.
It’s all about the pressure you put on the waistband. 2.5cm will normally happen regardless. But if your jeans are quite tight in the waist to start with then you will probably get more. Maybe as much as 4cm. But there is a limit and it’s not an exact science.
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I see… If you had to recommend which waist width I should go with which would end up hopefully perfect for me (according to my ideal measurements I'd like to reach ca. 74cm) which one would you recommend? 71,12cm (IH-634S-14) or 72,6cm (IH-634S-18)? Sorry if I'm being annoying, just trying to get your opinion on this
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@doguhanca We of course welcome you asking other forum members for advice, that is, of course, what this place is for. That said, you will not get any different answers from any of us to those already sent via email over the last couple of weeks.
Hope you find the pair you are looking for. -
@Alex I was just trying to learn more about the experiences people have made with the sizing down or stretching/ shrinking. I've received multiple answers from Adam before about this but I find it interesting to ask around in order to learn more
It's also a good way to not annoy Adam or you all the time I guess 
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Giles, I feel like, is the guru of Iron Heart which is why his answer would be the most interesting
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My answer will be the same answer as any of the IH staff or experienced customers will give you. But I will repeat what you have been told a number of times, this is not an exact science and if you are looking for exact answers or expect denim to behave in a precise way, you will be disappointed. Learn to embrace these idiosyncrasies, these imperfections, these less than precise results and things will get a whole lot easier and less stressful.
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@Giles You're right. I'm way too detailed about things and I keep asking about the unknown factors multiple times because the unknown makes me uncomfortable. Mainly because I love doing my research as much as I can and then spending a lot of money on something that I know will turn out to be exactly how I want it to.
Thanks for your reply, happy holidays by the way
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@Giles You're absolutely right about accepting wabi sabi. Not only in the world of denim but also in many areas, I should learn to be more comfortable with the imperfections sometimes I guess. The only thing that I was trying to avoid is that I feel uncomfortable in my own skin. The pairs of denim I've owned before all made me feel uncomfortable due to the fact that the thigh area was tight and etc. I really want to feel good in a pair that will last me a long time and that I will wear 8 hours+ a day of my lifetime. Kind of like buying a nice bed or mattress because you spend 8 hours a day sleeping everyday - you want the best.
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@doguhanca:
Sorry if I'm being annoying, just trying to get your opinion on this
Just to echo what’s been said by Giles and Alex, there are too many variables to be that exact about anything. The denim, your size, what you do in the jeans etc, etc. That’s why I used approxiamate numbers and language.
The only surety you have is your personal measurements, the measurements of the jeans and the fact that some waist stretch will happen. After that it’s best guess. As Giles says, part of the fun is seeing what happens to your pair when you start wearing them.
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I think this 18oz vintage is my favorite denim Iron Heart has created. I love my double ducks, 25oz overdyed, 22oz pronto, 16 oz vintage, 14 oz overdye, 21 oz overdye, 21oz….but these are just....perfect. SUPER comfy, but still stiff enough to create awesome creased/fades that I love. The bit of slub and breathability make these a cut above the rest.
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@doguhanca While many of us strive for the perfect fitting/looking jeans and are willing to spend quite a bit of money to that end,sometimes to get that one last measurement dialed in to your exact specifications you have to spend just a little more money,go to a tailor, and have your jeans slightly altered. That’s not considered ideal,but sometimes is the best solution for your denim peace of mind.
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For some reason, I like the idea of a pair of denim fitting me perfectly out of the box without any alterations at the tailor. Going to the tailor kind of takes the originality of the jeans away because a different thread is used or because it's not the original anymore.
The two pairs I want to get and try (IH-634S-14 and IH-634S-18) both fit me very good to perfect in all the other areas. Only question is the waist width. They might either expand too much, too less or just enough. Since one of them is a little tighter than the other, the question would be which one to go with, as if the jeans stretched out, one of them could be too baggy and the other perfect or too tight.
It's a big gamble to spend so much money and not know what the outcome will be. I've spent 240€ before and I have a pair that doesn't fit me post-soak due to a saggy butt. I'm willing to give it another go with these two this time. Hopefully one of them will be perfect…
