IH-634S-18 - 18oz Vintage Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans - Indigo
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Giles, I feel like, is the guru of Iron Heart which is why his answer would be the most interesting
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My answer will be the same answer as any of the IH staff or experienced customers will give you. But I will repeat what you have been told a number of times, this is not an exact science and if you are looking for exact answers or expect denim to behave in a precise way, you will be disappointed. Learn to embrace these idiosyncrasies, these imperfections, these less than precise results and things will get a whole lot easier and less stressful.
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@Giles You're right. I'm way too detailed about things and I keep asking about the unknown factors multiple times because the unknown makes me uncomfortable. Mainly because I love doing my research as much as I can and then spending a lot of money on something that I know will turn out to be exactly how I want it to.
Thanks for your reply, happy holidays by the way
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@Giles You're absolutely right about accepting wabi sabi. Not only in the world of denim but also in many areas, I should learn to be more comfortable with the imperfections sometimes I guess. The only thing that I was trying to avoid is that I feel uncomfortable in my own skin. The pairs of denim I've owned before all made me feel uncomfortable due to the fact that the thigh area was tight and etc. I really want to feel good in a pair that will last me a long time and that I will wear 8 hours+ a day of my lifetime. Kind of like buying a nice bed or mattress because you spend 8 hours a day sleeping everyday - you want the best.
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@doguhanca:
Sorry if I'm being annoying, just trying to get your opinion on this
Just to echo what’s been said by Giles and Alex, there are too many variables to be that exact about anything. The denim, your size, what you do in the jeans etc, etc. That’s why I used approxiamate numbers and language.
The only surety you have is your personal measurements, the measurements of the jeans and the fact that some waist stretch will happen. After that it’s best guess. As Giles says, part of the fun is seeing what happens to your pair when you start wearing them.
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I think this 18oz vintage is my favorite denim Iron Heart has created. I love my double ducks, 25oz overdyed, 22oz pronto, 16 oz vintage, 14 oz overdye, 21 oz overdye, 21oz….but these are just....perfect. SUPER comfy, but still stiff enough to create awesome creased/fades that I love. The bit of slub and breathability make these a cut above the rest.
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@doguhanca While many of us strive for the perfect fitting/looking jeans and are willing to spend quite a bit of money to that end,sometimes to get that one last measurement dialed in to your exact specifications you have to spend just a little more money,go to a tailor, and have your jeans slightly altered. That’s not considered ideal,but sometimes is the best solution for your denim peace of mind.
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For some reason, I like the idea of a pair of denim fitting me perfectly out of the box without any alterations at the tailor. Going to the tailor kind of takes the originality of the jeans away because a different thread is used or because it's not the original anymore.
The two pairs I want to get and try (IH-634S-14 and IH-634S-18) both fit me very good to perfect in all the other areas. Only question is the waist width. They might either expand too much, too less or just enough. Since one of them is a little tighter than the other, the question would be which one to go with, as if the jeans stretched out, one of them could be too baggy and the other perfect or too tight.
It's a big gamble to spend so much money and not know what the outcome will be. I've spent 240€ before and I have a pair that doesn't fit me post-soak due to a saggy butt. I'm willing to give it another go with these two this time. Hopefully one of them will be perfect…
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Thread aside, tailors usually don't have the same equipment as the manufacturer either. I took in some RMC khakis and they did a really good job, felled the seams consistently, etc… But it's lockstitched instead of chainstitched (technically better, but the inconsistency, unknowable to any but me or someone doing a careful inspection, still chafes).
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Apart from being indigo denim and roughly the same weight they are as different as 21oz and UHR, designed and woven with different concepts, fading patterns in mind.
The og 18oz has a crunchy feel when new, it is quite dense and doesn’t breathe much, and will shrink like raw. It’s a modern, Japanese style denim that gives quite high contrast fades.
The new vintage style 18oz is fully sanforised, has a looser weave, so breathes better and is designed to fade with vertical fadings like 70’s denim did.
