IH-634S-18 - 18oz Vintage Selvedge Denim Straight Cut Jeans - Indigo
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For some reason, I like the idea of a pair of denim fitting me perfectly out of the box without any alterations at the tailor. Going to the tailor kind of takes the originality of the jeans away because a different thread is used or because it's not the original anymore.
The two pairs I want to get and try (IH-634S-14 and IH-634S-18) both fit me very good to perfect in all the other areas. Only question is the waist width. They might either expand too much, too less or just enough. Since one of them is a little tighter than the other, the question would be which one to go with, as if the jeans stretched out, one of them could be too baggy and the other perfect or too tight.
It's a big gamble to spend so much money and not know what the outcome will be. I've spent 240€ before and I have a pair that doesn't fit me post-soak due to a saggy butt. I'm willing to give it another go with these two this time. Hopefully one of them will be perfect…
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Thread aside, tailors usually don't have the same equipment as the manufacturer either. I took in some RMC khakis and they did a really good job, felled the seams consistently, etc… But it's lockstitched instead of chainstitched (technically better, but the inconsistency, unknowable to any but me or someone doing a careful inspection, still chafes).
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Apart from being indigo denim and roughly the same weight they are as different as 21oz and UHR, designed and woven with different concepts, fading patterns in mind.
The og 18oz has a crunchy feel when new, it is quite dense and doesn’t breathe much, and will shrink like raw. It’s a modern, Japanese style denim that gives quite high contrast fades.
The new vintage style 18oz is fully sanforised, has a looser weave, so breathes better and is designed to fade with vertical fadings like 70’s denim did.
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The 18oz Vintage is a great denim. It takes quite a while to lose its crispiness and even when it does, it definitely doesn’t have the ultra-soft hand of the 21oz or 25oz, but it has a lot more texture and character.
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The 18oz Vintage is a great denim. It takes quite a while to lose its crispiness and even when it does, it definitely doesn’t have the ultra-soft hand of the 21oz or 25oz, but it has a lot more texture and character.
Thanks. That's kind of a bummer because fading is secondary in my mind and being shiny and soft is top priority.
I might have to go for the 21 oz version instead. Or save my money for something else.
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For some reason the 16oz Vintage is a lot softer even if the denim is similar in every other way. It’s a loosely-woven denim (as is the 18oz version) and breathes probably even more than the 21oz. Still doesn’t have the sheen of the 21/25oz though. But it’s a fantastic denim and apparently endangered.
If you want a lighter denim that’s similar in feel to the 21/25oz, have you looked into the 142 denim? Definitely not as cool in the summer as the 16oz Vintage, but it has the sheen and (after some wear) the softness of the 21/25oz. It’s more tightly woven than the 21oz so it’s more similar to the 25oz than it is to the 21oz in my opinion.
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@filthy I believe the pockets are lined -
Mine are in a moving box or else I’d check for you!I love the 18oz denim - I think you’d be very happy with it!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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@Filthy:
…are the rear pockets lined on the Self Edge 633s-18? Also does this get the same ultra soft hand as the 25 XHS or 21 oz?
The rear pockets are lined. I love this denim but it has different qualities to the XHS and 21oz. It gets soft after a while but isn’t as smooth and even as the above mentioned. It has tons of character though and fades beautifully.
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Thanks everybody
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