Random questions to which you seek an answer
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Splattered asked this question and I figured I would put the answer here so that all new members need not ask again.
Why do my jeans have a leg twist?
"Many vintage jeans suffer from leg-twist. This is simply a natural adjustment of the fabric, which tends to follow the direction of the weave. Stefano Aldighieri, Director of Fabric & Finishing at LS&Co. explains it thus: “Levi’s denim were mostly right hand twills; the twill line rises to the right. During the weaving process you basically ‘force’ the fabric to be straight, perpendicular to the selvage, but at the same time you give it this direction in the construction. You lay and cut the fabric; in the early days LS&Co. patterns were cut straight along the selvage. When you wash the garments, the fabric will try to follow the direction of the weave and will pull in that direction… hence the twisted legs, the result of the movement of fabric. Because Lee started to use left hand weave denims, their legs would twist the other way.” Leg twist was eliminated in the 1970s by skewing (which contorts denim to its after-wash shape)- and later revived with Levi’s Red and Engineered jeans." - Via oki-ni
The Sanforizing process on jeans like the IH-634S will eliminate this effect. Hope this helps...
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Ahhh ok yeah totally.
The F380 are my only pair that have twisted post soak, the F310 did not… everything else i have i think is sanforized so i guess i just haven't noticed it till now.
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The F310's are unsanforized so I believe you should see some leg twist…
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random question, but after getting my new jeans i have to ask…
will iron heart ever make a standard 634S in an unsanforized version?
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LOD, that sounds like a pretty great question to post up here:
http://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=603.msg21181#msg21181
& believe me Lando will ask. A couple months back he asked him my pretty lame question about the colors they were using on the tees.
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random question, but after getting my new jeans i have to ask…
will iron heart ever make a standard 634S in an unsanforized version?
if its not broken, dont fix it.
plus, if you are looking for something unsanforized and IH, the SR is what has been made along with the SEXIH07's.
i think it would be interesting to see, but i really doubt that they would want to mess with their winning formula. i hear Ironheart and i think 634S
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random question, but after getting my new jeans i have to ask…
will iron heart ever make a standard 634S in an unsanforized version?
if its not broken, dont fix it.
plus, if you are looking for something unsanforized and IH, the SR is what has been made along with the SEXIH07's.
i think it would be interesting to see, but i really doubt that they would want to mess with their winning formula. i hear Ironheart and i think 634S
@monday:
LOD, that sounds like a pretty great question to post up here:
http://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=603.msg21181#msg21181
& believe me Lando will ask. A couple months back he asked him my pretty lame question about the colors they were using on the tees.
monday, good call.
and deadendpro i just got the SExIH07, which made me think about it. i like the 634 fit A LOT. they were my first sanforized pair of selvedge jeans, but i like the feel of these so much more.
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as soon as i got the SExIH07 i fell in love. i also love the 634 cut. i knew you'd said something about a '55 repro G, so i didn't know if something would ever come along that was similar to the 634 in unsanforized denim.
no worries. i'm sure i will purchase many pairs of 634s in the future!
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I think that the 634S is untamperable with. The cut is great, the denim is great and it is Harakis signature jean. I have 2 slims and a jean a little slimmer than a 634S coming out soon (ish). Final (hopefully) samples are with Haraki on the plane to UK as I type. I am also working on a couple of 55 collabs for new retailers…G
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that sounds awesome! can't wait to see what comes of all this. i'm sure my bank account will suffer!
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I think that the 634S is untamperable with. The cut is great, the denim is great and it is Harakis signature jean. I have 2 slims and a jean a little slimmer than a 634S coming out soon (ish). Final (hopefully) samples are with Haraki on the plane to UK as I type. I am also working on a couple of 55 collabs for new retailers…G
again, if its not broken, dont fix it.
Cant wait to see what else you come up with G-man.
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I think that the 634S is untamperable with. The cut is great, the denim is great and it is Harakis signature jean. I have 2 slims and a jean a little slimmer than a 634S coming out soon (ish). Final (hopefully) samples are with Haraki on the plane to UK as I type. I am also working on a couple of 55 collabs for new retailers…G
again, if its not broken, dont fix it.
Cant wait to see what else you come up with G-man.
ABSOLUTELY!
the 634S is my perfect jean (currently)
simon
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My mate asked me this question:
_Those triple work tapered jeans looks killer. I was even considering buying some "premium" jeans to avoid wearing little kid-sewn Levis that I just have to rebuy every 6 months anyway. Then I see that IH uses Zimbabwe cotton. Not into financing the Mugabe regime.
So, any idea which brands I should be looking into if I want first world cotton woven by first world weavers and sewn by first world tailors? Heh._
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I can understand your buddy not wanting to support Mugabe, but 'first world' is a somewhat loaded and problematic term, depending on one's perspective. Being from the one of the largest agrcultural regions in the US I can tell you business conditions and the negative influence thereof are often more deplorable in the 'first/developed world'. One of the major issues with Zimbabwe cotton, as I understand it, isn't that it necessarily funds the Mugabe regime, but rather his government and much of the farming community of the nation seem to be at odds with one another, causing problems for many small farmers. Cottco is the private holding company that manages Zimbabwe cotton:
"The Cottco investigation comes after recent criticism of the company by President Robert Mugabe, who alleged that the firm was externalising scarce foreign currency."
From: http://allafrica.com/stories/200401260670.html
Also: If I remember Zimbabwe had insane inflation…so, wouldn't that make their currency (too) plentiful, instead of scarce?@Seul:
My mate asked me this question:
_Those triple work tapered jeans looks killer. I was even considering buying some "premium" jeans to avoid wearing little kid-sewn Levis that I just have to rebuy every 6 months anyway. Then I see that IH uses Zimbabwe cotton. Not into financing the Mugabe regime.
So, any idea which brands I should be looking into if I want first world cotton woven by first world weavers and sewn by first world tailors? Heh._
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Thanks t_w_e!.. My mate's response. Not that I wanna drag this out or make a drama about it (Seth exaggerates the situation a bit in his description), just something I had actually never thought about, but he makes a good point… I'd rather not support a homophobic, racist b*stard such as Mugabi y'know...
_Did some more reading since that first post. The situation for cotton farmers in Zimbabwe is dismal at best. They're waaaay underpaid for their crops, as the exports are either handled by Cottco or Cargill, both huge corporations. So farmers are often paid less than the price necessary to even break even.
As for the US ag industry, I too live right in the middle of it. Your dude isn't wrong; it's not pretty for a lot if families. Corporate exploitation by Monsanto etc, has driven most of them into the red. But that's a rotten comparison. If an American farm family hits bottom, they get food stamps and wear thrift clothing. Maybe lose their home. If a Zimbabwean farm family hits bottom, they die of starvation before the AIDS that a quarter of the country's population has can get them.
I think your guys are probably choosing quality cotton over social responsibility. Which, I mean, is their decision. Just means that I'll have to shop for retardedly expensive jeans elsewhere. Haha. Thanks for the Samurai link, on that note!_