Watches - another OCD problem
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I get that, but it would have been historically incorrect to have put a tachymeter on the bezel of the SE Mare Nostrum. In 1993 the Mare Nostrum was introduced for public sale. Panerai did make some alterations to the design. A 42mm case made the watch much more wearable than the 52mm case of the original prototype. The two layer dial of the prototype was replaced by a normal (one layer) dial and the smooth bezel was now engraved with a km/h scale and later with a tachymeter.
It triggers my OCD that it specifies kph when units are independent in a tachymeter (you could be measuring anything per hour), but it is a beautiful take on a chronograph regardless.
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Did you pick it up? Looks great!
I spotted a Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Bronze in their boutique a couple of days ago, and since people here are fans of the metal, figured I'd post it.
And here's a photo from Instagram showing what it'll look like with a spot of patina.
Monochrome have just posted a review, and they mentioned it's got a soft iron inner case to protect the movement from magnetism. The product page on the Bell & Ross site doesn't mention this, so I don't know if it's a mistake.
Incidentally, or coincidentally, Fratello have an article on how to patinate a bronze watch, featuring a Pinion Axis.
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Ah nice that helps
I do like that it allows the seconds hand to sweep back around rather than having the scale start right away. I mean how many times am I measuring on the order of 600 units an hour on a watch? 55 is more practical, though I suppose you could do the math with or without a tach bezel.
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It's a pretty watch for sure and I like Oris. I was looking at their GMTs and some other maker (Hamilton I think) because I like their aesthetics and pricing, but in the end I do prefer the single dial. I use 24 hour time on my phone and think it's a practical system in general, so that design appeals to me. But perhaps it's easier to read the subdials–as a chronograph wearer it throws me, but I bet I'd get used to it.
On that note, Glycine makes a line that are GMT and use 24 hour hands for that and the primary hour hand. It gets a bit noisy but conceptually I like how clean it is. Very easy to read.
EDIT: "Big Crown" may refer to the bezel being a mechanism to change the hour hand. That's pretty nifty, I think I posted a Terra Cielo Mare here that sets time that way.
Ever since Doug turned me on to it, I've been hung up on the inaccurately and excessively named Oris Big Crown Propilot Worldtimer. I think the second time zone display is more legible than, say, the Sky-Dweller, or even a typical GMT. The setting mechanism is more elegant, and I like the clean looks of it. It is a large watch, however.
And it's not subject to Rolex-style supply chain extortion…
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@mclaincausey there are a bunch of world timers with varying designs, so if you're looking at options…
Jaeger LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time. I've seen one of these, but found the dial a bit complicated and hard to read. Hodinkee have a feature.
The IWC Pilot's Watch Timezoner Chronograph is one of the cleverest designs. The timezone is set by rotating the bezel. However, it's quite a big beast of a watch, being 46 mm in diameter, and 16 mm thick! Hodinkee have a hands on, and the size comes up.
Incidentally, some specs say that the watch has an inner soft iron case, which would protect it from magnetism. That's useful if you spend your life around computers.
Lastly the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere, shown here in bronze. Hodinkee has a hands on. I'm not sure how it works.
That said, the Tudor GMT is a cool watch, and offers a lot for the money. They are apparently not too easy to get hold of, I don't know if it's Rolex keeping a tight lid on supply, or just a lot of demand driven by the GMT Master.
If you want a more monochrome GMT, Omega and LUC Chopard have options.
@QuantumMechanic I didn't pick up the diver, because I'm currently broke.
If I got a Bell & Ross, it'd probably be a Laughing Skull, though I'd be tempted to wait for the inevitable bronze version.
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Thanks!
I could get the Tudor right now below list, though not with the bracelet I'd prefer. I generally prefer (and can afford) more straightforward complications than some of the far-out world timers, and I like the notion of a rugged watch, especially a diver, given some of the case seal issues I've had with my Speedy. I'd prefer to never remove the watch when traveling, and a diver design supports that. The Tudor should have good antimagnetic performance as well, though my time around computers is more Ultralight laptop than server farm.
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The Tudor GMT on the bracelet is apparently in quite high demand, with a longer waiting list. Depending on the discount, it might be worth buying it on the strap, and get the bracelet later.
Tudor use silicon springs in their in-house movements, so it should be reasonably resistant to magnetism.
I get the simple watch thing, I generally prefer three-handers with no date.
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@Graeme even i couldn't get priority for the GMT pepsi SS. i've tried asking my cousin who works high up in an AD for rolex. zero chance..
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@louisbosco I reckon with Rolex that most of these pieces are more available than they're reputed to be. If you want one, find a reputable dealer, put your name down, and wait, which might take up to a year.
Everyone complains about the lack of availability, but I suspect that's why secondhand prices are high. Lose the waiting lists, and they'd fall.
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I thought there was a pretty solid wall of separation between Rolex and Tudor. (Meaning, I'd be surprised that a connection at Rolex would be any help at all in accessing a Tudor).
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@louisbosco I reckon with Rolex that most of these pieces are more available than they're reputed to be. If you want one, find a reputable dealer, put your name down, and wait, which might take up to a year.
Everyone complains about the lack of availability, but I suspect that's why secondhand prices are high. Lose the waiting lists, and they'd fall.
i have. we'll see what happens..
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@mclaincausey I think that demand for Tudors has been boosted by their association with Rolex. I know that some models, such as the Black Bay Bronze, were hard to get hold of at one point.
@louisbosco good luck getting the GMT. I reckon it'll turn up within a year, depending on what games Rolex plays.
Also, another article on patinating bronze.
https://deployant.com/the-bronzed-patina-the-curious-case-of-patina-how-to-get-it-and-how-not-to/
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I've seen a couple brands in other industries try to maintain demand by artificially stifling supply. What happened there was that people got frustrated, hostility boiled over, customers found a competing product that scratched the itch and the brand that tried to create demand by choking supply wound up having the inverse desired effect.
Now I'm pretty sure that won't happen to Rolex as they are the most recognized brand in the world, but it will be interesting to see if there's any damage to the brand name with this business move.
I had the money for a Pepsi GMT, but it's already been delegated to other toys while I was waiting for it to come out.
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i'm highly doubtful that'll happen to rolex at all. it may have something to do with the perception of the brand by the majority of people whether it's seen as reaching a certain level or achievement or some sort of status symbol.
the way the dealers work when creating these waiting lists "on behalf" of rolex is that there's always some sort of priority to the top 1% which sucks for us people wedge in between. that way, they are almost guaranteed that the specific watch will fly off the shelves to people with high disposable income.
it's a shame but that's capitalism for ya.
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This. Which is why Rolex SS watches, as an example, retain their value better than most. Desirable watches are 'stored' and not displayed by many retailers as to offer these models to their preffered clients. Not a preffered customer, and want a certain watch, well then be willing to pay a premium in the market.
That's the fun of it.
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I agree with @DougNg that restricting supply could hurt Rolex in the long term. If I went into a dealer looking to make an expensive discretionary purchase, only to be told, "We're only selling those to our best customers, and we're not even going to let you put your name down on a waiting list," there's a good chance that I'll go to another watch shop and brand in the future.
I'm probably not the only one who thinks like that. The fact that I can get a white faced IWC Big Pilot Big Date (one of a limited edition of 150) easier than a Daytona (341 for sale on Chrono24) suggests that someone is taking the Mickey.
If you want a Rolex, find a dealer who'll put your name down on "the list", and be prepared to wait. (Anecdotally, the time will be less than you'll be quoted, and I've heard of people getting Daytonas within a year.) And accept all of the comments about a shortage as being sales BS.
Or pay a premium on the grey market.
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As someone who bought a GMT Master II SS from a dealer 2 years back, I went to the Rolex store in SYD, was put on the 1 year list, and went to an AD around the corner who knew on the spot he'd have a watch in for me within a month, no deposit needed. I was called by the Rolex store a few weeks after my name went on the list asking was I still interested as he had a watch for me ready to go.
I'm not sure how much of this is rhetoric vs the reality that exists, vs my timing, vs being in SYD. My own first hand experience was set up to play out how it's described here, however, the reality very quickly turned out to be different.
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The calculation made by the brand is that they'll be able to upsell them on bimetal or precious metal pieces, which are higher margin products. Once the customer is (1) committed to buying a Rolex and (2) in the store with cash in hand, they are in a weakened position and a significant proportion will be upsold.
