Raw Denim - What is it?
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Finally, is it essential for raw denim to increase in weight by two ounces, such as from 21 to 23 ounces for ultra heavy Raw(UHR) IH-denim, after the customer soaks or washes their jeans? Conversely, could a 23-ounce raw-pair shrink to 21 ounces after soaking and washing?
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Please provide a final response; this will conclude the matter.
@Giles -
Denim weight is traditionally measured loomstate, but how much that denim weighs after it has been sanforised and/or washed is dependent on a multitude of variables.
@Hamza-Yunus said in Raw Denim - What is it?:
Conversely, could a 23-ounce raw-pair shrink to 21 ounces after soaking and washing?
No. When the fabric shrinks you are basically taking away null space, so you get more fabric in a square yard, hence sanforised and/or washed denim will weigh more than in its loomstate.
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gotcha .. conversely it is not true. I was referring to IH 21/23 oz UHR pair. When the buyer soaks or washes it the first time, not the manufacturer (IH), the fabric density increases as the " null space " is taken away due to water absorption as the twill weave gets tightened or denser. the fabric weight might increase to 23oz from the 21oz-loom state as advertised.
once fully dried, it may retain a slightly heavier density (23oz) and may go back to its natural weight of 21oz over time. Like u said, it involves a multitude of factors and may or may not be genrallised.anyways, thanks a lot for your expertise. @Giles
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@Hamza-Yunus I probably have about 20 pairs of N&F jeans... they are a great company, and do amazing things that wouldn't exist without the brand. You name it they've done it...
That being said, my IH jeans do feel superior and although more expensive I do prefer IH... for someone wanting to just get into raw denim, N&F are a great brand and definitely have their place in the raw denim world.
I didn't know about the James Bond wearing dirty fades/stretch selvedge, thanks for sharing!
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@Jord N&F didn't heavily capitalize on this event, imo. Perhaps this is due to their humble attitude, lack of arrogance, or respectful demeanor. However, they speculated about one of two pairs possibly worn by James Bond; this might be a strategic tactic employed by costume designers. In any case, N&F cannot be ruled out. IH is a biker-oriented brand, while N&F appeals to a broader demographic through innovation and a proactive attitude. If anything is possible in the denim world, they would be the last of the Mohicans to achieve it.
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I have just two pairs ..
One is super guy dirty fade selvedge (14.5 oz, i guess).
The other is weird guy the dark knight 16oz selvedge with Bat-logo on the selvedge ID.
Both are W30, a bit tight but I still wear them.
Finding a correct size was harder for me as I was not able to try them on.
I live in Pakistanand I had to buy them online and shipped to me.
I got confused in tag sizes and actual waist. -
@Giles IH do nothing with nep? I have seen slubby jeans and jacket on IH catalog.
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" a-tad-terse " reply .. You were not lying
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@Giles The article above explains loom-chatter well. Slubby texture (warp) and neppy texture (weft) come from the yarn, while loom-chatter results from the weaving process. As the loom weaves, the shaking and tangling of the yarn further accentuate the uneven texture [loom chatter) .. gotcha !!
hope, I m right -
@Giles Hahhaa .. damn right !!
short, accurate and a tad terse ..