Watches - another OCD problem
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I asked about the Classique Chronométrie in the Breguet Bond Street boutique the other day, and the salesman asked if I'd like to take a look at it.
This really is a special piece. The movement runs at 10 Hz, which is one of the fastest available. Most high beat designs run at 4 Hz, a few, such as the Zenith El Primero or the Seiko are at 5 Hz, whilst the Chopard 8HF runs at 8 Hz. The advantage is that this improves the accuracy, and the Breguet runs between -1 and +3 seconds per day, whereas a COSC certified chronometer will be between -4 and +6 seconds a day. Furthermore, this rate is tested over a 48 hour period, rather than 24 hours, which is what COSC uses, and so accounts for a greater proportion of the power reserve.
The reason that manufacturers aren't turning out 10 Hz movements is that the escape wheel will move so fast that it would shed oil, which isn't what you want. Breguet are part of a consortium with Rolex and Patek who developed silicon components, and these don't need to be lubricated.
The other trick is that the spring is supported by a magnetic pivot. This adds an element of shock resistance, as it will slip back into place if knocked out of alignment. Normally magnetism is a problem for watch movements, but silicon is amagnetic and so is unaffected.
This was explained with a helpful model. The spring and the blue wheel are the silicon components.
Breguet's watch boffins won the grand prize, the Aiguille d'Or at the GPHG for their efforts.
The finishing on the watch is absolutely exquisite. The decorations on the dial are machined by hand, and the movement (which I don't have a picture of) is polished and chamfered.
As for price, it's £29,000 in a yellow or white gold case. I need to get saving…
If your budget doesn't stretch that far, the Marine series have a lower entry point at around £11,000. It makes for a dressier alternative to something like a Blancpain.
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I saw pictures of that Marine series- really great attention to detail and the wave theme is carried throughout without looking gimmicky. I thought the rotor was interestingly done, and I love any watch with a big date function.
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A friend is after a watch at the other end of the price scale, and I took a look at a couple for her at the new Watches of Switzerland shop on Regent Street.
From left to right, a 1960s Omega Constellation, Nomos Tangente 33, and Nomos Club.
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Get the Tangente. I wear mine all of the time and never get tired of the simplicity and beauty of the design. The club is nice but more contemporary. That particular Omega doesn't do much for me and service can be tricky.
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The Tangente is really small, though. I've never seen one, other than on the Internet, so maybe it doesn't seem so?
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@Chris - all three of the above watches are small, being between 33 and 35 mm in diameter. The Tangente is a ladies design, so is even more diminutive than what we'd normally wear.
I've been wearing my Tender recently, so have got back into unfashionably tiny timepieces. There's a bit of an adjustment, but after that I'm fine.
Thanks for your thoughts @Anesthetist - I think that a Nomos makes a lot of sense. The Omega would probably also be a bit more delicate, as it's 50 years old too.
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First and second pic are the same watch. Second watch (third pic) is an Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra…
Have a looksie here, Rafa!.. http://www.watchrecon.com/?brand=omega
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Always loved aviation and aeronautics so this is the perfect watch for me.
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I finally picked up my Tudor Black Bay this weekend:
This is my first ''serious'' watch and I couldn't be happier with my choice. I think I will get years of wear out of this one and it will look even better with age. I can see how collecting watches starts though… Now I'm in, there's no going back!
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Epic pick up SM!!! You did well with the BB.
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Thanks both. Qinhan, I'll probably try out the stock fabric strap or a genuine NATO next summer. Agreed that a fabric strap looks superb on the BB.
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Very nice SM, I'm still thinking about getting the Tudor Heritage Ranger. Nice cuff too by the way, what's the shirt?
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SM, lovely watch, I have been eyeing up the Black Bay myself for a while now.
Tudor really have upped their game recently and are making some excellent pieces at reasonable prices.
Rolex manufactured case and strap will give many years of good use. The dark blue bezel is a good choice too, while the original red bezel is quite striking I personally prefer the subtlety of the dark blue.
