Random questions to which you seek an answer
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@chrisjohnnick Looks doable practically speaking, but as G says, be careful if there are any bar tacks.
Personally I wouldn’t hesitate, but I do have some experience. A ‘quick unpick’ may be handy if you decide to go for it.
Can’t speak for what they’d look like though.
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Hello buddies. I received an IHB-11-NAT today and absolutely love it! The crew was nice enough to trim an XL to a L for me. Thanks @Bailey! My question is does anyone have any ideas as to what I could potentially do with this extra leather trim? Or how to make something out of it? It's a pretty cool and gorgeous piece and I would love to use it.
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@Oaktavia You could do a few things with that, but the easiest might be to cut a nice strip that preserves the middle section with the two holes. You could bend the leather to align the two holes, and fasten them together with a Chicago screw. Now you're left with a short loop, a Chicago screw, and a long tail. You can put a split ring through the short loop, and it'll make for a nice little fob. I would also recommend trimming the ends of the tail (and the other end as well) in a visually pleasing way. I would probably cut it at an obtuse angle (any utility knife can do this. It's okay to take several light passes, rather than trying to cut through all of that thickness all at once) and round the corners that are left. Sandpaper works if you're not confident getting the corners rounded cleanly with a knife. The last thing that will make this look finished is, once you're happy with the final shape, lay it flat and bevel the edges. You can probably find a cheap edge beveler on amazon that would do the job, or stop by a cobbler and ask them to help. It'll take them about 10 seconds. Once the edges are beveled, you can burnish them with some water and a piece of canvas. Now it's time to put it all back together. And if you put the split ring in before you fasten it with the Chicago screw, it'll make your life a little easier. One last thing, be careful bending that thick leather and avoid trying to crease it. If it's too dry, it may crack. A little water can coax it along if needed, but it's probably better to let it naturally find its bend as you use it.
Hope this helps!
And if you want more information about beginning leather tools, I wrote up a pretty exhaustive list of everything you'll need to get started with leather. I haven't audited the links in a while, so some might be broken, but it's still a solid resource. https://zeebeeleather.com/blog/2015/6/20/so-you-want-to-get-into-leatherworking
Let me know if you need anything else.
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Is it better to hem before or after break in? If doing it before, how do you know how much it will come up due to whiskers/honeycombs etc? Appreciate any thoughts on this!
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@meltdown It is completely personal preference and dependant on the fabric of the denim, for example if you have a pair XHS or UHR denim you will get approximately 1-2" of shrinkage in the denim so I would recommend washing them before getting them hemmed just so you take out all of the potential shrinkage within the fabric and dont end up shrinking them to a length that wouldn't work, whereas a lot of our other denim is washed once and sanforised so there should be little to no shrinkage. I would always recommend adding a 0.5" on to your normal length if you are worried about any shrinkage or loosing some length from honeycombs but that would be very minimal and you probably wouldn't notice it.
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@JoshC Thanks for the prompt reply! If looking at 555 or 888 in the 21oz, they are sanforized so just add 0.5" to the inseam measurement of a pair of jeans I like would be a good starting point?
Say I add the length but it still ends up being too long, could a re-hem work? Or the amount of fabric needed to be cut & rolled be too much depending on how much I wanted to take in?
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@Oaktavia Then you put it in the vat.
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@Mister_Brue hah, I would need to make a new one. I like the natty leather just as well though.