Ask Giles and/or Alex Anything

[jordanscollected]

Is there a huge difference between the weave for a UHF vs a Denim? Could IH produce a denim shirt that was Buffalo check? classic Indigo squares with natural squares but in the stiffer unbrushed denim fabric? not sure if i'm asking this right.

[Giles]

I understand, and yes think it would be possible....

[mclaincausey]

That looks great in my head, as does an ombré version with yarns dipped variably dark.

[SKT]

I think you guys might be onto something

[mclaincausey]

Google uncovered this and yes I do like. https://propercloth.com/dress-shirts/japanese-indigo-ombre-plaid-flannel-158658.html

[Matt]

This is a totally crazy idea which is exactly why it needs to happen. A regular version and an indigo/black one.

HDF Heavy Denim Flannel

[Alex]

Sounds worth a go, for sure

[DeeDee85]

Has the 18oz vintage selvedge ever been overdyed?

[tody]

@DeeDee85 IHSH-293-OD?

[DeeDee85]

@tody should have thought about that shouldn’t I, i was thinking how cool jeans would be but forgot all about that, thank you!

[Sir_Cuffs-a-Lot]

@DeeDee85 Self Edge has the 633 cut in the 18od. I’ve got a pair on the way, looking forward to trying them out

[DeeDee85]

@Sir_Cuffs-a-Lot thanks mate, I’ll have a look

[RobeOfTheMagi]

When did you switch from this seam to selvedge?

[Giles]

I think I first specced a selvedge fly for the IH-666S (the original raw 18oz Devil's fit) and the DC4001. At the same time I asked that belt loops be sewn into the waist band and the rear pockets to be lined. All subsequent jeans I specced, I asked for those features to be included, (though I may have forgotten to request it on some iterations). The IH-634S would have been the last jean to adopt those features (if indeed they even have yet) as it required chagnes to an established "thing" and the Japanese are not very good at dealing with complications like that.

[RobeOfTheMagi]

That's really interesting, thank you for elaborating, Giles! Does that mean the most recent iterations of the 634s still don't feature a selvedge fly?

[will6er]

@RobeOfTheMagi Seems to vary by 634 model. Most say "Selvedge side seams and fly construction" some (like 25oz) "Selvedge side seams"

[Giles]

It's a mixed bag. If we specced them, then they will exist, if we forgot to, or did not because we thought it obvious they should be included, they wont.

[wjw]

Would it be possible to pay for extra belt loops upon purchase? Kind of like paying to hem, but paying for 2 additional belt loops (5->7). With the same caveat of being non returnable upon alteration.

[Giles]

I am sure that would be possible. @josh can certainly do it. THOUGH, it does depend upon him having new denim of the same type. If you are having them hemmed (by enough) them that may be the donor denim It's quite a big/complicated job though, especially if they are going to be tucked into the waistband.....