Random questions to which you seek an answer

[EdH]

@Sir_Cuffs-a-Lot Watch how thick your cuffs are (if you cuff them, hemmed you might be OK). The inseam of the jeans on your right leg is gonna hit those gears as you pedal. The XHS is a beefy SOB, but steel always beats cotton eventually. I'd hike the jeans up your shin or use those clippy things around your shins to keep the cuff well away from the gear.

[Sir_Cuffs-a-Lot]

@Matt black on my commuter, but now you got me thinking it might be rad to switch it out to a spare white one….

[Matt]

[bryaneidins70]

@Alex ….did you mention a while ago a potential collaboration with Dark Arts Coffee or was I dreaming?

[Alex]

Not dreaming, we talked about it in house then it fizzled out,. Should restart that convo

[Jett129]

@endo Came across this one at Blue Owel.

[endo]

Beautiful, thank you @Jett129. In the first place I was just wondering if there were any with hand warmers. I understand that - originally - they weren't part of the denim jackets, both type II and III, but got more commonly with the type IIIs. Now, I learned there are also some type IIs with pockets, but it seems to be the minority.

[GraemeE]

Overdying:
Is this process done after the item is completely sewn or is it done prior to assembling?

[Matt]

After.

[J-IV]

^^
You can see all the stitches dyed too and explains the sizing woes with OD items

[jordanscollected]

@Alex what, if any, are the challenges with making a heavier weight raw denim? Haraki made the 21/23, but couldn't he simply leave the XHS in "Loom state" and have a 23/25 (or whatever that number is) raw denim?

[Alex]

Haraki just doesn't like raw denim, basically. I don't think that there are any challenges, per se, other than that. He prefers to have full control over the way his products fit after shrinkage. The UHR is a international only denim, now, to my knowledge.

[pechelman]

the little leather pulls and trim on various items like hooides and bags, where do they all come from?
Off cuts from your jackets or ? Mostly curious if any of them are using the same Himeji tannery as your jackets.

[popvulture]

@Alex ahhh, ok that's interesting, and explains a lot. I love raw. I'll say it till my voice is gone — I wish the 18oz raw would come back. I know there's probably no chance but whatevs, I'll keep dreaming.

[Alex]

@pechelman I'm not sure, actually. We cut our own in Gosport for replacement from leather sourced by Simmons Bilt / Wesco, but I am not sure where Haraki gets his from

[Alex]

@popvulture yeah, we would love it too, and would love another raw too. Maybe once we fix whats broken, we can look to expand the line again

[endo]

@M800sct1 Regarding N1 waxing, at least AFAIK the Fjällräven Greenland wax can be done with an iron only, doesn't need a heat gun. I did G1000 stuff that way, which worked. Or is it different with the N1 Whipcord? Or just easier with the heat gun? Did you already do it @Nik? I want to wax my N1, just ordered a few Greenland wax bars.

[Nik]

Not yet @endo but still planning on it

[endo]

I tried a little bit on the inside, seems to be pretty easy, used a hairdryer

[Nik]

I'm waiting for heat gun because apparently they can also help tighten up loose grain on leather